This section includes general advice and tips on travelling to and inside Nepal. Besides the Visa formalities, airport tax etc. we've advice on how to avoid being ripped-off by the less scrupulous as well as some notes on modes of transport, political stability and more general advice on health care precautions, facilities etc. This advice is intended as a courtesy and we have taken every reasonable precaution to ensure its accuracy [at September 2002] but it is offered without any legal guarantee. If you are in any doubt, you should check for further details either with us or with an independent third party.

If you have further questions, please ask us.

Unless you are a citizen of Nepal (or India), you'll need a Visa to enter the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal. The Nepali government issues Visas to almost all nation's citizens at its embassies and consulates abroad, at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu and at the main crossing points along its borders [Kakarbhitta, Birgunj, Sunauli, Nepalgunj, Dhangadi and Mahendranagar]. Entry to Nepal by air is only permitted at Tribhuvan Airport, Kathmandu.

To obtain a Visa you must present a valid passport (with at least 6 months left before it expires), 2 passport-sized photos and a payment per adult of 25.00 US Dollars for a Single Entry Visa valid for 60 days. A Visa can be extended by 30 days for a surcharge of 25.00 US Dollars. If you are planning to visit Tibet or Bhutan during your visit to Nepal, you will need a double entry Visa, for which there is a surcharge of 40.00 US Dollars or for multiple entries, the surcharge is 60.00 US Dollars. If you are making a connection at Kathmandu, a Transit Visa can be obtained for 48 hours at a cost of 5.00 US Dollars. Children below 10 years are exempted from visa fees.

Since the immigration authorities have begun distributing visa application forms so that visitors can complete them on the plane before they land, the process of issuing new Visas at Kathmandu Airport has speeded up. If you aready have a Visa issued by a Royal Nepalese Embassy or Consulate in your own country or another country en-route, you will pass through Immigration at Kathmandu with little delay. If you need to apply for a Visa on arrival, you will need funds to cover the Visa Fees in US Dollars (cash) together with your passport (with at least 6 months left before it expires), two passport-sized photographs and the completed Visa Application Form. Having a pen with you helps. Strictly speaking only US Dollars in cash is permitted for payment of the Visa Fees. There is a Currency Exchange in the Immigration Hall where you can usually change US Dollar traveller's cheques or other hard currencies for US Dollar notes. However, the Currency Exchange Office is not always open - particularly for evening and night flights. There are presently no facilities to process payment by credit card and although ATMs (Automatic Telling Machines) are available in the main tourist areas, they have not yet reached the Airport complex.

It is at the discretion of the Head of Immigration to decide whether other hard currencies can be accepted in place of all or part of the Visa Fee in US Dollars. If you are lucky, Indian Rupees may be accepted although 500 IRs notes almost certainly won't be accepted at the airport or elsewhere in Nepal because of the number of counterfeit notes in circulation. The requirement for two passport photos per person appears to have been relaxed somewhat in recent years although it is still advisable to have them with you to ensure a smooth passage through the airport.

Visas can be extended up to 90 days at the Department of Immigration, Tridevi Marg, Thamel, Kathmandu (Tel. Kathmandu 412337 / 418573) or at the Immigration Office in Pokhara.

Travellers arriving without the necessary currency or paperwork have to wait until the other passengers on the plane have been processed to find out whther the Head of Immigration is prepared to exercise discretion. The passport and Visa fee are the most important items. If you've a valid passport and the dollars but no extra photos and politely make your apologies, you will probably be allowed entry. If you've got the passport, no photos and not the dollars but Euros or other hard currency of equivalent value plus a respectful attitude, you'll probably be allowed through. If you are travelling with children, you're likely to get a more sympathetic treatment as you enter and travel throughout Nepal. If you arrive without the proper documents or fee and treat the immigration staff without respect - as some have done - your problems are likely to get worse.

Airport Tax

Travelling in Nepal is generally cheap and efficient by Western standards however, the inexperienced traveller should note that being a tourist anywhere, invites less scrupulous locals to try to take advantage. So for instance, when passing out of Kathmandu's international terminal at Tribhuvan Airport in particular, be prepared for unofficial porters to make straight for your cases / trolley and try to get you into a taxi whose driver has a deal going with them and probably with a hotel as well. If you are not firm in declining their assistance or do not agree a fair price for portering and the taxi ride beforehand, expect to be ripped-off. Much better for the weary traveller (and more cost-effective) is to arrange in advance to be collected at the airport and transferred smoothly to your hotel.

Whether you're back-packing on a shoe string budget or holidaying in style, it is easier and less expensive to book transfers and rooms in advance. Booking online for example, frequently means you can get a more favourable discount on the price. After a long journey and particularly if arriving at night, the last thing most travellers want to do is to ferry around looking for suitable accommodation as the taxi driver does his utmost to convince you to stay at a hotel he knows - which will probably be less suited and more expensive than you need - regardless of the sales patter.

Generally, you can often spot a rip-off coming when some kindly individual begins asking whether this is your first visit, whether you've booked a hotel / tour or visited his village etc etc. Simply checking whether you've a sun tan and if so, how much, will indicate how recently you've arrived. Of course, the overwhelming majority of Nepalis are decent and highly honourable - a sense of ethics and honour are hallmarks of Nepali culture - but where tourists congregate, so too do the minority hoping to profit from their unfamiliarity with exchange rates / thecosts of transport, accommodation and so forth. This is most noticeable outside Tribhuvan Airport.

In some parts of the main tourist areas, street hawkers will try to sell you 'carved statues' which turn out to be moulded resin weighted with stones inside or toys at inflated prices. Stall holders might describe souvenirs as '500 years old' and 'solid silver' - until you point out that it is rightly illegal to take antiques out of Nepal (and that the object is made of cheap metal which has been tin-plated or chrome-plated to look like silver). Nepali craftsmen are easily able to make an object look older than it actually is. Generally, if you respond with a smile and just say 'come off it!', as often as not you'll get a smile back, an 'Okay.' and you'll be left alone. This is true the world over.

When shopping, either get local advice on how to haggle prices or take a trusted Nepali with you to negotiate - particularly on larger purchases such as silk rugs, thankas (scroll paintings) or some of the gorgeous Tibetan and Nepalese jewellery. Prices are rarely 'fixed prices' - which means what it says - and whilst prices for tourists are usually quoted at appreciably higher rates than for locals, it is important to strike a fair price to both you and the seller bearing in mind that prices are still bargains at full tourist prices compared with western prices and the haggling process offers plenty of opportunity to make a small personal contribution to lessening the economic gap between Nepal and the outside world. In the majority of cases, Nepali traders believe that the first customer of the day is a sign of good luck and almost always they will insist on giving you a small gift in addition to what you have already bought. As elsewhere in Asia, many transactions take place over a cup of tea or a cold drink.

Most people travel through Nepal by road or air. If you're travelling on a budget, the cheapest way of getting around besides walking is by public bus. Public buses are slow, cramped and often unreliable but you get to experience a side of Nepali life you'd otherwise miss. Alternatively, private coaches run regularly between the main centres and offer a better option if a shorter journey time, reliability and comfort are the priorities.

Hiring a private car and driver for a day or so is inexpensive by Western standards and enables you to decide when to schedule the journey or stop for refreshments, taking photos etc. The major highways and main roads are usually surfaced in tarmac whereas minor roads, particularly off the beaten track tend to be a compacted mix of dust and rubble - more suited to 4 wheel drive vehicles and more prone to being blocked by a truck or bus broken down in a particularly unforgiving part of the terain.

Travel generally is more difficult during the rainy season and particularly during the monsoon since landslides frequently block the main highways for a day or two at a time. At other times, the main trunk routes tend to be busy and can get temporarily clogged as very old buses and trucks crawl up steep hills or break down in the attempt. Generally speaking, road discipline is less stringent than in the West so in terms of general road safety, coaches are preferable to buses and cars hired with a careful driver are probably the safest options. The road system is full of sharp bends and snaking passes since routes often run alongside rivers where they have carved their way through larger rocky gorges. In many ways, the road system is almost perfectly designed for motorcycling and cycling tours.

With the exception of a 25 km stretch of railway line from the Indian border in the south to a shrine in western Nepal, there are no rail services. However, being a himalayan kingdom, Nepal is well served by domestic airlines running frequent flights between the provincial and city airports with the domestic terminal at Kathmandu as the main hub. There are many domestic airlines as well as the national carrier to fly with. We recommend Mountain Air and Buddha Air who may charge about 7% more than their rivals but run the most modern (US made) aircraft and have good safety records. Flying may well be the safest way to travel and is certainly the most convenient but it also offers some spectacular views of the mountain peaks and terraced landscapes below on the way. During the rainy season, flights are restricted to Kathmandu and six other domestic airports and operate subject to the severity of the prevailing weather conditions.

Travelling from Kathmandu to Pokhara (roughly 220 km) by public bus takes around 9 hours and costs roughly 2 to 3 Euros per person each way. Going by coach costs fractionally more but takes an hour or so less to complete the journey. Hiring a car and driver takes about 7 hours and works out at little more when shared between four people (approximately 3 Euros per person, one way). Flying takes 25 minutes and costs around 60 to 70 US dollars per person, each way. It is also possible to raft or canoe some of the way from Kathmandu and complete the remainder of the journey by road.

The Royal Family

A Maoist insurgency has been taking place over the last 6 years in the least developed rural areas of Nepal - away from the main tourist areas. The Maoists have targeted their activities on the Nepali security services and have stated publicly that they welcome foreign tourists coming to Nepal. On the very few occasions when foreigners have encountered the guerillas (eg by straying far off the beaten track) the Maoists have simply 'liberated' the tourists of their valuables and disappeared without any violence. On one occassion the Maoists demanded cameras, money and possessions but the Nepali guides haggled with them and agreed a price of 50 US Dollars only per person. The Maoists even provided a receipt! (It would only happen in Nepal.)

Following the palace killings, the rebels declared a casefire during which time they prepared to launch attacks on remote police posts. Three months later they broke off talks and made two major assaults on remote hill stations. Because reporting was made difficult by the terrain and difficulties in communications with remote areas no one was initially certain that the security forces would be able to restore order in the face of the rebel campaign. The new King and a new Prime Minister responded by declaring a state of emergency and sending the army in. There followed a series of operations in the western regions as the security forces went onto the offensive, pushing the rebels back to their strongholds in the hills of the far west. Newspapers carried a series of distressing headlines although as always, they neglected to mention that for 99% of people at the time, life carried on as normal. By the end of the year, it was apparent that the issue was not whether the security forces could regain control of the rebel areas but rather it was a matter of how long it would take to defeat them militarily and whether the emergency was still required.

The rebels found it necessary to attempt to sue for peace and remind the authorities they were not a spent force by attacking a small government outpost in a remote area. With preparations under way for elections in November 2002, the state of emergency was lifted and the rebels took the opportunity to both propose more talks and launch an assault on a hill station in the remote west - as if to remind the authorities they were not altogether a spent force. They have declared their intention to disrupt the November elections and have called a general strike (see below) in protest at the Prime Minister's decision to hold fresh elections. Although they may succeed in disrupting some of the polling in the far west, for the vast majority the elections should take place uneventfully, with an increased number of security personnel visible on the streets.

Despite some setbacks for the Royal Nepal Army since it was sent in, there is no doubt that the balance of forces between the rebels and the security forces has decisively tilted against the rebels. After 5 years of being largely ignored as a distant problem, the new authorities have tackled the problems head on and pushed the rebels back into the areas they originally came from in the far western hills. Military assistance from India, the US, the UK and Belgium together with tighter border controls along the Nepal-India border have made it far harder for the rebels who have seen their number halve in the space of a few months. Development assistance is also increasing to help address the poverty, illiteracy, malnutrition and welfare needs of people living in the least developed rural areas - the causes which fuelled the Maoist alliance between peasants in rural Nepal and intellectuals sheltering abroad. In desperation, the rebels began attacking infrastructure targets such as power lines and phone exchanges in remote regions. In doing so, they lost popular support since the effects were to make the lives of the least advantaged - those they professed to represent - more difficult. In just a year, the rebels had lost control of many of the areas they previously influenced, they had lost even the conditional public support for their cause and they had suffered major military defeats. Instead of looting weapons from the security services, the authorities were recovering many of the arms, food and money looted earlier. Combined with rates of desertion from the rebels by people who had volunteered or been obliged to join, the rebel movement is roughly half its former size and increasingly being forced onto the defensive.

Many Western travellers are familiar with taking sensible precautions when travelling at home. For example, it may be wise to avoid walking alone through some districts in the large cities at night because of the risk of crime. Equally, few suggest foreigners should not visit Rome because life in Sicily can sometimes be violent or London because of recent civil conflict in Northern Ireland. So although Nepali society has its problems like most others, they can be easily avoided by simply exercising the same kind of caution you'd apply at home or anywhere else. See below for more specific guidance.

Diplomatic Travel Advice

Diplomatic travel advice varies depending on who you ask and when. Generally the approach is cautious and lists a recent history of the headline events - with the caveat that no travel is risk-free. Broadly however, the advice is that it is safe to travel to Nepal provided sensible caution is excerised. For example, treks and tours should be arranged through reputable and established operators, travellers should avoid political demonstrations and stay in the main tourist areas or follow trekking routes with a Nepali Guide. Travelling to remoter areas particularly in the far East and West or after night fall is not generally recommended.

Every few months, the insurgents declare general strikes and manage to close shops and transport services down for a day. Although 'bandhs' as they are known pass by peacefully there tends to be a low level build up in rebel activity in the week or two before they take place so it is better to time a visit to avoid a bandh since the options available for holidaying or travelling can be temporarily more limited around that time.

Provided that you follow the advice of reputable Nepali guides or travel operators who know where it is unadvisable to go and when, you can enjoy the rare privilege of visiting Kathmandu and discovering for yourself why it is that they say this ancient Himalayan Kingdom changes you. If you are used to the Western mindset and pace of life, prepare yourself for an inward journey of intellectual discovery as well as physical travel and enjoying the spectacular scenery along the way. The people of Nepal are blessed with some of the most spectacular ranges of the Himalayas as well as a warm sub-tropical climate for most of the year. However, it is their grace and spirituality, their unique art forms and gentle warm-heartedness which offer the most refreshing contrast with modern daily life elsewhere.

September 2002. For the latest advice, see the Foreign Office's site.

Prior to departure, travellers should check with their medical doctor for precautionary advice on inoculations / booster jabs. Medical care is available for Westerners at clinics in the Kathmandu Valley and in Pokhara. The costs are expensive by local standards. For example, a minor motorcycle accident requiring an ambulance, a one hour consultation, dressing of wounds plus a course of pain killers and antibiotics is likely to cost around 25 US dollars. Elsewhere in Nepal, facilities are less extensive so for travelling outside Kathmandu, Pokhara and other major centres - particularly if you plan to trek - it is sensible to take out insurance which includes the option to be air-lifted by helicopter should the need arise.

Altitude Sickness or AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) is usually caused by ascending too quickly to high altitudes on trekking or climbing expeditions. Some people cope with adjusting to thinner levels of oxygen in the air better than others. Being physically fit and taking proper stops along the way to acclimatise help avoid the problem although recent research suggests there is a genetic factor making some people more prone to AMS than others. Without appropriate action (such as an immediate descent, use of an oxygen mask etc.) AMS can be life threatening. The symptoms can include disorientation so trekking alone or without an experienced guide is obviously unwise. We recommend that trekkers use an established, reputable agency whose staff know about acclimatisation, can recognise the early symptoms of AMS and take prompt remedial action. You can find more details on AMS at the Summit Treks and Adventures site.

Taking young children with you to Nepal presents no more health risks than taking them abroad elsewhere and if they are still building their immune system, they may prove less susceptible to colds etc than adults. Items like nappies, milk powder, toys and sweets are widely available in the main centres. Nepalis love kids and cannot resist making a fuss of them. It is considered good luck to pick up or touch the face of boys in particular since in Nepal, having a son generally affords a more secure retirement for the parents in the absence of state pensions. Typically, parents travelling with kids are warmly received in Nepal and find the children draw them into conversation with a wider range of passers by. Even very young children in Nepal roam quite freely, learning early on to avoid what traffic there is and to pick their way along mountain paths in the countryside. Taking a toddler by push chair or on reins anywhere is likely to make Nepalis stop and stare in concern and bemusement - don't be surprised if some ask you if yours is being punished for doing something wrong! In the hills particularly, very young children get carried, piggy-back fashion.