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The Royal Family In June of 2001, news broke of a bizare event at the Royal Palace in which the Crown Prince (Dipendra) was alleged to have murdered 8 members of his immediate family including the popular King Mahendra and the Queen, following an argument about his choice of bride. Despite the reports in the international media and from diplomats who had interviewed survivors, most Nepalis found it impossible to believe that the direct descendants of Lord Shiva could be capable of such insanity. King Mahendra (who kept a pet Rhino called 'Prince Phillip' and banned Peter Sellers films after someone remarked on the resemblence between the two) had handed power over to a democratic political system only ten years earlier and the Royal family were regarded as an important symbol of stability in a Nepali society. As the news broke, there was an outpouring of sorrow on the streets of Kathmandu as men shaved their heads in respect for the dead (as they would if mourning their own parents) and this was soon followed by a series of rumours of conspiracy and widespread denial of international media accounts. Many claimed that the King's brother who happened to be in Pokhara that day was behind the plot to take over the throne although the fact that his son was in the room where the shootings took place made the suggestion less likely. There followed two or three days of confusion during which a small crowd gathered outside the palace and at one point an individual's emotions got the better for him and in the panic he was shot. A curfew was declared in the capital although being at the end of the tourist season only a very few travellers were delayed by a day or two before they could depart via the airport. During this time the authorities struggled with the constitutional problem of whether the Crown Prince (reportedly brain dead but being kept on life support) should be prosecuted for murder for which the sentence is hanging but as a member of the royal family he would be immune from prosecution, or to crown him as the new King. In the end they decided to declare him King until 3 days later when he was declared dead and his life support machine was switched off. In the days that followed, the curfew was lifted, processions to cremate the palace victims took place and life returned to normal in the Kathmandu Valley. The crown passed to Gyandendra. A multi-party committee was set up to investigate the events and concluded some weeks later that it had in fact been the Crown Prince who had been responsible. Despite the symbolic importance of these bizare events and the impossibility of reconciling reports with the widespread belief in the Royal family's divinity, the fact that succession to the throne passed so smoothly demonstrated the enduring stability of Nepali society. Gyanendra has since demonstrated his intention to support the democratic process and won widespread popular support. He is generally regarded by diplomats abroad as a 'safe pair of hands'. Maoists in Western Nepal
A Maoist insurgency has been taking place over the last 6 years in the least developed rural areas of Nepal - away from the main tourist areas. The Maoists have targeted their activities on the Nepali security services and have stated publicly that they welcome foreign tourists coming to Nepal. On the very few occasions when foreigners have encountered the guerillas (eg by straying far off the beaten track) the Maoists have simply 'liberated' the tourists of their valuables and disappeared without any violence. On one occassion the Maoists demanded cameras, money and possessions but the Nepali guides haggled with them and agreed a price of 50 US Dollars only per person. The Maoists even provided a receipt! (It would only happen in Nepal.) Following the palace killings, the rebels declared a casefire during which time they prepared to launch attacks on remote police posts. Three months later they broke off talks and made two major assaults on remote hill stations. Because reporting was made difficult by the terrain and difficulties in communications with remote areas no one was initially certain that the security forces would be able to restore order in the face of the rebel campaign. The new King and a new Prime Minister responded by declaring a state of emergency and sending the army in. There followed a series of operations in the western regions as the security forces went onto the offensive, pushing the rebels back to their strongholds in the hills of the far west. Newspapers carried a series of distressing headlines although as always, they neglected to mention that for 99% of people at the time, life carried on as normal. By the end of the year, it was apparent that the issue was not whether the security forces could regain control of the rebel areas but rather it was a matter of how long it would take to defeat them militarily and whether the emergency was still required. The rebels found it necessary to attempt to sue for peace and remind the authorities they were not a spent force by attacking a small government outpost in a remote area. With preparations under way for elections in November 2002, the state of emergency was lifted and the rebels took the opportunity to both propose more talks and launch an assault on a hill station in the remote west - as if to remind the authorities they were not altogether a spent force. They have declared their intention to disrupt the November elections and have called a general strike (see below) in protest at the Prime Minister's decision to hold fresh elections. Although they may succeed in disrupting some of the polling in the far west, for the vast majority the elections should take place uneventfully, with an increased number of security personnel visible on the streets. Despite some setbacks for the Royal Nepal Army since it was sent in, there is no doubt that the balance of forces between the rebels and the security forces has decisively tilted against the rebels. After 5 years of being largely ignored as a distant problem, the new authorities have tackled the problems head on and pushed the rebels back into the areas they originally came from in the far western hills. Military assistance from India, the US, the UK and Belgium together with tighter border controls along the Nepal-India border have made it far harder for the rebels who have seen their number halve in the space of a few months. Development assistance is also increasing to help address the poverty, illiteracy, malnutrition and welfare needs of people living in the least developed rural areas - the causes which fuelled the Maoist alliance between peasants in rural Nepal and intellectuals sheltering abroad. In desperation, the rebels began attacking infrastructure targets such as power lines and phone exchanges in remote regions. In doing so, they lost popular support since the effects were to make the lives of the least advantaged - those they professed to represent - more difficult. In just a year, the rebels had lost control of many of the areas they previously influenced, they had lost even the conditional public support for their cause and they had suffered major military defeats. Instead of looting weapons from the security services, the authorities were recovering many of the arms, food and money looted earlier. Combined with rates of desertion from the rebels by people who had volunteered or been obliged to join, the rebel movement is roughly half its former size and increasingly being forced onto the defensive. Many Western travellers are familiar with taking sensible precautions when travelling at home. For example, it may be wise to avoid walking alone through some districts in the large cities at night because of the risk of crime. Equally, few suggest foreigners should not visit Rome because life in Sicily can sometimes be violent or London because of recent civil conflict in Northern Ireland. So although Nepali society has its problems like most others, they can be easily avoided by simply exercising the same kind of caution you'd apply at home or anywhere else. See below for more specific guidance. Diplomatic Travel Advice Diplomatic travel advice varies depending on who you ask and when. Generally the approach is cautious and lists a recent history of the headline events - with the caveat that no travel is risk-free. Broadly however, the advice is that it is safe to travel to Nepal provided sensible caution is excerised. For example, treks and tours should be arranged through reputable and established operators, travellers should avoid political demonstrations and stay in the main tourist areas or follow trekking routes with a Nepali Guide. Travelling to remoter areas particularly in the far East and West or after night fall is not generally recommended. Every few months, the insurgents declare general strikes and manage to close shops and transport services down for a day. Although 'bandhs' as they are known pass by peacefully there tends to be a low level build up in rebel activity in the week or two before they take place so it is better to time a visit to avoid a bandh since the options available for holidaying or travelling can be temporarily more limited around that time. Provided that you follow the advice of reputable Nepali guides or travel operators who know where it is unadvisable to go and when, you can enjoy the rare privilege of visiting Kathmandu and discovering for yourself why it is that they say this ancient Himalayan Kingdom changes you. If you are used to the Western mindset and pace of life, prepare yourself for an inward journey of intellectual discovery as well as physical travel and enjoying the spectacular scenery along the way. The people of Nepal are blessed with some of the most spectacular ranges of the Himalayas as well as a warm sub-tropical climate for most of the year. However, it is their grace and spirituality, their unique art forms and gentle warm-heartedness which offer the most refreshing contrast with modern daily life elsewhere. September 2002. For the latest advice, see the Foreign Office's site. |
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